Papa kuhikuhi
● Ka Kahiko: Ka Hanau o ka auau
● ʻO ka Middle Ages: ʻO ke akahai a me ka hana
● ʻO ka 18th a me ka 19th Century: ʻO ka hānau ʻana o ka lole ʻauʻau
● ʻO ka Victorian Era: ʻO ke akahai a me nā mīkini
● ʻO ke kenekulia 20 mua: He Revolution in Swimwear
● ʻO ka Mid-20th Century: The Bikini Boom
● Ka Late 20th Century: Innovation and Diversity
● ʻO ka 21st Century: Hana, Hoʻomau, a me ka Hoʻohui
● Video: Ka Evolution of Swimwear
● Ka hopena moʻomeheu a me nā hoʻopaʻapaʻa
● ʻO ka wā e hiki mai ana o nā lole ʻauʻau
● Ka hopena
● Nā nīnau a me nā pane
>> Nīnau: I ka manawa hea i hoʻomaka mua ai nā kānaka e komo i nā lole ʻauʻau hoʻolaʻa?
>> Nīnau: Na wai i haku i ka bikini?
>> Nīnau: Pehea i hoʻololi ai ka ʻenehana i ka ulu ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau?
>> Nīnau: He aha nā mīkini ʻauʻau, a no ke aha i hoʻohana ʻia ai?
>> Nīnau: Pehea i loli ai ka manaʻo o ka haʻahaʻa i nā lole ʻauʻau i ka wā?
ʻO ka mōʻaukala o nā lole ʻauʻau he huakaʻi hoihoi ia e hōʻike ana ʻaʻole wale i ka ulu ʻana o ke ʻano akā ʻo ka hoʻololi ʻana i nā loina kaiaulu, nā holomua ʻenehana, a me nā ʻano moʻomeheu i ke kino kanaka. Mai ka wā mua o ka ʻauʻau ʻana no ka pono a hiki i ke au hou o nā hoʻomaha kahakai a me nā haʻuki wai hoʻokūkū, ua ulana ʻia ka moʻolelo o nā lole ʻauʻau i loko o ka lole o ka moʻomeheu kanaka. E luʻu kākou i ka hohonu o ka manawa e ʻimi ai i ka wā a me ke kumu i hoʻomaka ai ka poʻe e ʻaʻahu i nā lole ʻauʻau, a me ke ʻano o ka ulu ʻana i nā kenekulia.
Ka Kahiko: Ka Hanau o ka auau
I nā moʻomeheu kahiko, ʻo ka ʻauʻau ka mea ma mua o ka hana leʻaleʻa. ʻAʻole i loaʻa ka manaʻo o nā lole ʻauʻau i kēia lā. I Roma kahiko a me Helene, no ka laʻana, ua hana pinepine ʻia ka ʻauʻau ʻana a me ka ʻauʻau ʻana ma ka ʻōlohelohe. He mea maʻamau ka ʻauʻau lehulehu, a ʻo ka nānā ʻana i ka maʻemaʻe a me ka launa pū ʻana ma mua o ka haʻahaʻa.
Eia naʻe, aia kekahi mau ʻano lole ʻauʻau mua. Ma Pompeii kahiko, hōʻike ʻia nā mosaics i nā wahine e ʻaʻahu ana i ʻelua ʻāpana lole e like me nā bikini hou. Ua ʻaʻahu ʻia kēia mau mea no nā haʻuki ma mua o ka ʻauʻau. Ma nā wahi ʻē aʻe o ka honua, e like me Iapana, ʻaʻahu nā kānaka i nā lole like me ka malo i kapa ʻia ʻo fundoshi i ka wā e ʻauʻau ai.
ʻO ka Middle Ages: ʻO ke akahai a me ka hana
I ka ulu ʻana o nā hui a me ka ikaika o ka hoʻomana, ua loli ka manaʻo i ka ʻōlohelohe. Ua emi iki ka ʻauʻau ʻana, a i ka wā e ʻauʻau ai nā kānaka i ka lehulehu, ʻo ka haʻahaʻa ka mea nui. I ka wā o ka Middle Ages, ua hana ʻia ka hapa nui o ka ʻauʻau ʻana ma nā muliwai, nā loko, a i ʻole ke kai, a ʻaʻahu pinepine nā kānaka i ko lākou lole maʻamau a i ʻole nā mea maʻalahi.
ʻAʻole hiki i ke kenekulia 18 i hoʻomaka ka manaʻo o ka ʻauʻau kai no nā kumu olakino e kaulana i waena o nā elite ʻEulopa. ʻO kēia ka hoʻomaka ʻana o kahi au hou no nā lole ʻauʻau.
ʻO ka 18th a me ka 19th Century: ʻO ka hānau ʻana o ka lole ʻauʻau
ʻO ka hopena o ka 18th a me ka hoʻomaka ʻana o nā kenekulia 19 i ʻike i ka piʻi ʻana o nā hōkele kahakai a me ka kaulana o ka ʻauʻau kai no ke olakino a me ka leʻaleʻa. Ua hana kēia i ka pono no ka lole ʻauʻau kūikawā. ʻO nā ʻaʻahu ʻauʻau wahine o kēia au he mau lole huluhulu i hana ʻia i ka hulu hipa a i ʻole flannel, i hoʻolālā ʻia e mālama i ka haʻahaʻa a hiki i ka neʻe ʻana i ka wai. Hoʻokomo pinepine ʻia kēia mau ʻaʻahu me nā kāmaʻa lōʻihi a me nā kāmaʻa ʻauʻau.
ʻO nā lole ʻauʻau kāne o ia wā, he ʻūlū huluhulu lōʻihi ka lōʻihi o ke kuli a i kekahi manawa he pāpale kūlike. ʻO ka nānā ʻana i ka uhi ʻana i ke kino ma mua o ka hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻana i ka ʻauʻau pono.
ʻO ka Victorian Era: ʻO ke akahai a me nā mīkini
ʻO ka wā Victorian i lawe mai i nā loli nui i nā lole ʻauʻau. ʻO ka mea i hana ʻia o ka mīkini ʻauʻau - kahi lumi ʻaʻahu huila i hiki ke ʻōwili ʻia i loko o ka wai - hiki i ka poʻe ʻauʻau ke komo i ke kai me ka ʻike ʻole ʻia i loko o ko lākou mau lole ʻauʻau. Ua lilo nā lole ʻauʻau wahine i mea maʻalahi, me nā ʻaʻahu pōkole a me nā pua pua, akā ua uhi ʻia ka hapa nui o ke kino.
Ua ulu aʻe nā lole ʻauʻau kāne, me ka hoʻokomo ʻana i ka lole ʻauʻau hoʻokahi ʻāpana. ʻO kēia mau lole i uhi ʻia i ka ʻūhā a me nā lima pōkole a me nā wāwae, ua lilo ia i mea maʻamau no nā kāne ʻauʻau kai a kaulana maikaʻi a hiki i ke kenekulia 20.
ʻO ke kenekulia 20 mua: He Revolution in Swimwear
ʻO ka huli ʻana o ke kenekulia 20 i hoʻololi nui i ka hoʻolālā lole ʻauʻau a me nā ʻano pilikanaka. I ka makahiki 1907, ua poʻomanaʻo ʻo Annette Kellerman, ka mea ʻauʻau Australia, i ka wā i hopu ʻia ai ʻo ia ma Bosetona no kona ʻaʻahu ʻana i ka lole ʻauʻau hoʻokahi ʻāpana i kūpono i kona mau lima a me nā wāwae. Ua hoʻāla kēia hanana i ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa e pili ana i nā lula ʻauʻau a me nā pono wahine.
Ua ʻike ʻia nā makahiki 1920 i ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana i nā ʻano wahine, me nā lole ʻauʻau. Ua kaulana ka lole ʻauʻau hoʻokahi, e hōʻike ana i ka ʻili ma mua o ka wā ma mua. Ua ʻike hou ʻia nā lole ʻauʻau kāne, me nā ʻōpala i pani i nā lole ʻāpana hoʻokahi o ka wā ma mua.
ʻO ka Mid-20th Century: The Bikini Boom
ʻO ka hoʻomohala ʻoi loa i ka mōʻaukala lole ʻauʻau i hele mai i ka makahiki 1946 me ka hana ʻana o ka bikini. Ua hoʻolauna ka ʻenekini Farani ʻo Louis Réard i ka lole ʻauʻau ʻelua ʻāpana, a kapa ʻia ʻo ia ma hope o ka Bikini Atoll, kahi e mālama ʻia ai nā hoʻāʻo ʻana i nā pōkā atomika. He mea hoʻohilahila loa ka bikini no laila ua hoʻolimalima ʻo Réard i kahi lole lole e hoʻohālike iā ia, no ka mea, ʻaʻohe kumu hoʻohālike maʻamau e ʻaʻahu iā ia.
I ka hoʻomaka ʻana me ka haʻalulu a me ke kūʻē ʻana, ua ʻae ʻia ka bikini i nā makahiki 1950 a me 1960. Ua kōkua nā hōkū Hollywood e like me Brigitte Bardot a me Ursula Andress i ka hoʻolaha ʻana i ka bikini, e lilo ia i hōʻailona o ka hoʻololi ʻana i ka moekolohe a me ka hoʻololi ʻana i nā ʻano i ke kino.
Ka Late 20th Century: Innovation and Diversity
Ua ʻike ka hapa hope o ke kenekulia 20 i ka pahū ʻana o nā ʻano a me nā mea hou i nā lole ʻauʻau. ʻO ka hoʻokomo ʻana i nā mea hou e like me Lycra i nā makahiki 1960 i hoʻololi i ka hoʻolālā ʻauʻau, e ʻae ai i nā lole ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi a me ka ʻoluʻolu.
Ua ʻike nā makahiki 1970 a me 1980 i ka piʻi ʻana o ka bikini thong a me ka hoʻolaha ʻana o ka lole ʻauʻau hoʻokahi ʻāpana ma ke ʻano he mea hana. Ua hoʻomaka nā lepili mea hoʻolālā e hana i nā lole ʻauʻau kiʻekiʻe, e hoʻohuli i ke kahakai i ala holo.
No nā kāne, ua lawe mai nā 1970s i ka pōkole-style pōkole, i kaulana no ka ʻauʻau hoʻokūkū a me nā lole kahakai. Eia naʻe, ma ka 1990s, ua lilo nā pōkole papa lōʻihi i ke ʻano makemake no nā kāne he nui.
ʻO ka 21st Century: Hana, Hoʻomau, a me ka Hoʻohui
I kēia au hou, hoʻomau ka ulu ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau. ʻO nā lole a me nā hoʻolālā kiʻekiʻe i hoʻololi i ka ʻauʻau hoʻokūkū, me nā lole holoʻokoʻa piha i ka wā pōkole ma mua o ka hoʻoponopono ʻana.
Ke ulu nui nei ka manaʻo i ka hoʻomau ʻana, me ka nui o nā brand e hana nei i nā lole ʻauʻau mai nā mea hana hou. Ua alakaʻi ʻia ka neʻe ʻana o ke kino i ka nui a me nā ʻano like ʻole, e mālama ana i nā ʻano ʻano kino like ʻole.
ʻO ka piʻi ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau haʻahaʻa, me nā burkinis, ua hāʻawi i nā koho no ka poʻe makemake nui i ka uhi no nā kumu hoʻomana a pilikino paha. I ka manawa like, ke hoʻomau nei nā ʻano micro bikini a me nā ʻano liʻiliʻi i nā palena o ka minimalism.
Video: Ka Evolution of Swimwear
No ka ʻike maikaʻi ʻana i ka huakaʻi hoihoi o nā lole ʻauʻau i nā makahiki, e nānā kākou i kēia wikiō ʻike:
Hāʻawi kēia wikiō pōkole na Harper's Bazaar i kahi ʻike wikiwiki i ka loli ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau mai ka makahiki 1900 a hiki i kēia lā, e hōʻike ana i nā ʻano kī a me nā ʻano o kēlā me kēia au.
No ka ʻike hohonu ʻana i ka mōʻaukala o nā lole ʻauʻau wahine, me ka hana lima lima o nā ʻano mōʻaukala, hāʻawi kēia wikiō i kahi hiʻohiʻona piha:
ʻO kēia wikiō he 12 mau minuke e alakaʻi iā mākou i kahi huakaʻi i ka manawa, e hōʻike ana i ka ulu ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau wahine mai ke kenekulia 18 a hiki i kēia manawa, me nā wehewehe kikoʻī a me nā hiʻohiʻona ʻike o kēlā me kēia au.
Ka hopena moʻomeheu a me nā hoʻopaʻapaʻa
ʻAʻole pili wale ka moʻolelo o nā lole ʻauʻau; he hōʻailona hoʻi ia o ka hoʻololi ʻana i nā loina a me nā loina. I loko o kona hoʻololi ʻana, ua lilo nā lole ʻauʻau i ke kikowaena o nā hoʻopaʻapaʻa a me nā hoʻopaʻapaʻa e pili ana i ke akahai, ka pono, a me ke kūʻokoʻa o ka ʻōlelo.
I ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ke kenekulia 20, ua ana nā mākaʻikaʻi kahakai i ka lōʻihi o nā lole ʻauʻau wahine e hōʻoia i ko lākou hoʻokō ʻana i nā kūlana haʻahaʻa. ʻO ka hoʻokomo ʻia ʻana o ka bikini i ka makahiki 1940 i hui ʻia me ka huhū ma nā wahi he nui, me kekahi mau ʻāina i pāpā ʻole ʻia.
I kēia mau lā, hoʻomau ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa e pili ana i nā lole ʻauʻau kūpono. Ua pāpā kekahi mau ʻāina ʻEulopa i ka burkinis, a ʻo kekahi poʻe i kākoʻo iā lākou ma ke ʻano he hōʻailona o ka ʻokoʻa moʻomeheu. I ka ʻauʻau hoʻokūkū, ua nui nā kūkākūkā e pili ana i ka pono o nā lole ʻauʻau kiʻekiʻe e hoʻomaikaʻi nui i ka hana.
ʻO ka wā e hiki mai ana o nā lole ʻauʻau
Ke nānā nei mākou i ka wā e hiki mai ana, ʻike maopopo ʻia ka lōʻihi o ka ulu ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau. ʻO ka holomua o ka ʻenehana textile e hoʻopuka i nā mea hou aʻe e hoʻonui ai i ka hana, hōʻoluʻolu, a me ka hoʻomau.
Hiki iā mākou ke ʻike i nā lole ʻauʻau e hāʻawi i ka pale UV i hoʻonui ʻia, a i ʻole nā lole me ka ʻenehana i kūkulu ʻia e nānā i nā hōʻailona koʻikoʻi a i ʻole ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe wai. ʻO ka ulu ʻana o ka hopohopo no ke kaiapuni hiki ke alakaʻi i nā lole ʻauʻau biodegradable a i ʻole nā lole i hana ʻia mai nā plastik moana.
Hiki ke hoʻopili i nā lole ʻauʻau, me nā uhi kikohoʻe e hiki ai ke hoʻololi koke i ke ʻano a i ʻole nā hoʻolālā pilikino. Ke hoʻomau nei ka hoʻoikaika kino ʻana o ke kino, ʻike paha mākou i ka ʻokoʻa ʻē aʻe o nā ʻano a me nā nui, e mālama ana i nā ʻano kino āpau a me nā makemake pilikino.
Ka hopena
ʻO ka moʻolelo o ka wā i hoʻomaka ai nā kānaka e ʻaʻahu i nā lole ʻauʻau, he moʻolelo ia i hala mau keneturi, e hōʻike ana i nā loli o ke kaiāulu, ʻenehana, a me nā ʻano i ke kino kanaka. Mai ka olohelohe pono o ka wa kahiko a hiki i na lole lole ki'eki'e o keia mau la, ua hele mai na lole 'au'au.
ʻO ka mea i hoʻomaka ma ke ʻano he pono no ka haʻahaʻa a me ka hana ua ulu aʻe i loko o kahi ʻoihana multi-billion dollar e hui pū ana i ke ʻano, ka hana, a me ka hōʻike pilikino. Ke hoʻomau nei mākou i ka hoʻoikaika ʻana i nā palena o ka hoʻolālā a me ka ʻenehana, hoʻokahi mea i maopopo: ʻo ka ulu ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau he hana mau ia, e hoʻololi mau i nā au o ka moʻomeheu kanaka a me nā mea hou.
Inā makemake ʻoe i kahi ʻāpana haʻahaʻa, bikini wiwo ʻole, a i ʻole kekahi mea ma waena, ʻo nā ʻano koho ʻauʻau like ʻole o kēia lā e hōʻoiaʻiʻo ana aia kahi mea no kēlā me kēia. No laila, i ka wā aʻe e pā ai ʻoe i ke kahakai a i ʻole ka loko wai, e hoʻokaʻawale i kahi manawa e mahalo i ka mōʻaukala waiwai ma hope o kāu koho ʻana i nā lole ʻauʻau - ke ʻaʻahu nei ʻoe i kahi ʻāpana o ka mōʻaukala i hana ʻia i nā kenekulia.
Nā nīnau a me nā pane
Nīnau: I ka manawa hea i hoʻomaka mua ai nā kānaka e komo i nā lole ʻauʻau hoʻolaʻa?
A: Ua hoʻomaka ka puka ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau i hoʻolaʻa ʻia i ka hopena o ke kenekulia 18 a me ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ke kenekulia 19 me ka piʻi ʻana o ka ʻauʻau kai no ke olakino a me ka leʻaleʻa. Ma mua o kēia, ʻauʻau pinepine ka poʻe me ka olohelohe a i ʻole i ko lākou mau lole maʻamau.
Nīnau: Na wai i haku i ka bikini?
A: Ua haku ʻia ka bikini hou e ka ʻenekini Palani ʻo Louis Réard i ka makahiki 1946. Ua kapa ʻia ʻo ia ma hope o ka Bikini Atoll, kahi i mālama ʻia ai nā hoʻāʻo pōkā atomika i kēlā manawa.
Nīnau: Pehea i hoʻololi ai ka ʻenehana i ka ulu ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau?
A: Ua hoʻoikaika nui ka ʻenehana i nā lole ʻauʻau, mai ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ka elastic i ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ke kenekulia 20 a hiki i ka hoʻomohala ʻana i nā mea synthetic e like me Lycra i ka makahiki 1960. I kēia mau lā, ua hoʻololi nā lole ʻenehana kiʻekiʻe i ka ʻauʻau hoʻokūkū me nā lole hoʻoikaika hana.
Nīnau: He aha nā mīkini ʻauʻau, a no ke aha i hoʻohana ʻia ai?
A: ʻO nā mīkini ʻauʻau he lumi ʻaʻahu huila i hoʻohana ʻia i nā kenekulia 18 a me 19. Ua ʻae lākou i ka poʻe ʻauʻau, ʻoi aku ka nui o nā wahine, e komo i loko o ka wai me ka ʻike ʻole ʻia i ko lākou ʻaʻahu ʻauʻau, pēlā e mālama ai i ka haʻahaʻa e like me nā loina o ka wā.
Nīnau: Pehea i loli ai ka manaʻo o ka haʻahaʻa i nā lole ʻauʻau i ka wā?
A: Ua loli nui ka manaʻo o ka haʻahaʻa i nā lole ʻauʻau i ka wā. I ke kenekulia 19, ua uhi ka lole ʻauʻau i ka hapa nui o ke kino. Ua ʻike ʻia ke kenekulia 20 i ka emi ʻana o ka uhi, me ka bikini e hōʻailona ana i kahi loli nui. I kēia lā, nui nā koho mai ka hōʻike ʻana i ka uhi piha, e hōʻike ana i nā makemake moʻomeheu like ʻole a pilikino.
