Papa kuhikuhi
● Nā Kuleana Kahiko: Nā mea mua i nā lole ʻauʻau o kēia wā
● ʻO ka Middle Ages a me ka Renaissance: He wā o ka haʻahaʻa
● ʻO ka 19th Century: ʻO ka hānau ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau hou
● Ka Mua o ka 20th Century: Streamlining and Functionality
● The Bikini Revolution: He Mokuna Hou i loko o ka mōʻaukala lole ʻauʻau
● Late 20th Century a hiki i kēia manawa: Innovation and Diversity
● Ka Hopena: ʻO ka Evolution mau o nā lole ʻauʻau
I ka manawa hea i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau? Ua hoʻopiʻi kēia nīnau i ka poʻe kākau moʻolelo hana a me ka poʻe hoihoi kahakai no nā hanauna. ʻO ka mōʻaukala o nā lole ʻauʻau he huakaʻi hoihoi i nā kaukani makahiki, e hōʻike ana i nā loli i ka nohona, ka moʻomeheu, a me ka ʻenehana. No ka hoʻomaopopo pono i ka wā i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau, pono mākou e luʻu hohonu i ka moʻolelo o ka mōʻaukala a e ʻimi i ka ulu ʻana o ka ʻauʻau ʻauʻau mai nā lāhui kahiko a hiki i kēia lā.
Nā Kuleana Kahiko: Nā mea mua i nā lole ʻauʻau o kēia wā
Ke nīnau mākou 'i ka wā hea i hana ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau,' pono mākou e hoʻomaopopo mua i ka manaʻo o nā lole kūikawā no ka ʻauʻau a me ka ʻauʻau ʻana i mau makahiki. I nā lāhui kahiko e like me ʻAigupita, Helene, a me Roma, ʻauʻau pinepine nā kānaka a ʻauʻau olohelohe. Eia nō naʻe, aia nā hōʻike o nā ʻano mua o nā lole ʻauʻau e pili ana i kēia mau manawa.
Ma Roma kahiko, no ka laʻana, hōʻike nā hana kiʻi mosaic i nā wahine e ʻaʻahu ana i nā lole e like me nā bikini o kēia wā i ka wā e hana ana i nā hana haʻuki. ʻAʻole i hoʻolālā ʻia kēia mau lole ʻauʻau mua no ka ʻauʻau ʻana akā no ka haʻahaʻa a me ka pale ʻana i ka wā ʻauʻau a i ʻole nā haʻuki. No laila, i ka wā e noʻonoʻo ai i ka wā i haku ʻia ai ke kapa ʻauʻau ma kona ʻano kumu mua loa, hiki iā mākou ke hoʻihoʻi i kēia mau moʻomeheu kahiko.
ʻO ka Middle Ages a me ka Renaissance: He wā o ka haʻahaʻa
I ka wā o ka Middle Ages a me Renaissance, ʻaʻole i loaʻa ka manaʻo o nā lole ʻauʻau e like me kā mākou i ʻike ai i kēia lā. ʻO ka ʻauʻau ʻana a me ka ʻauʻau ʻana i hana pinepine ʻia ma ka ʻōlohelohe, akā me ka hoʻokaʻawale ʻana o nā kāne. ʻAʻole makemake ka ʻauʻau lehulehu i kēia manawa, ma muli o ka laha ʻana o nā maʻi a ma muli o ka manaʻo hoʻomana a me ka pono.
ʻAʻole a hiki i ke kenekulia 18 i hoʻomaka ka manaʻo o ka ʻauʻau kai no nā kumu olakino i kaulana i waena o nā elite ʻEulopa. Ua hōʻailona kēia i kahi huli nui i ka mōʻaukala o nā lole ʻauʻau. I ka holo ʻana o ka poʻe i nā hōkele kahakai, ua ʻike ʻia ka pono o nā lole ʻauʻau kūpono. Eia nō naʻe, inā e nīnau mākou i ka wā i hana ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau i kahi ʻano i ʻike ʻia e nā maka hou, pono mākou e nānā i ke kenekulia 19.
ʻO ka 19th Century: ʻO ka hānau ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau hou
ʻO ke kenekulia 19 ka wā i hoʻomaka maoli ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau, ma ke ʻano he ʻano lole ʻokoʻa. He mea nui kēia au i ka pane ʻana i ka nīnau 'i ka wā hea i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau?' e pili ana i nā lole i hana ʻia no ka ʻauʻau a me ka ʻauʻau.
I ka makahiki mua o 1800, ʻo nā lole ʻauʻau wahine he mau lole lōʻihi a voluminous i hana ʻia i ka hulu hipa a i ʻole flannel. ʻO kēia mau 'ʻaʻahu ʻauʻau' ʻaʻole hiki ke hana i ka ʻauʻau, he kaumaha a paʻakikī ke pulu. ʻO nā kāne, ma ka ʻaoʻao ʻē aʻe, ua ʻaʻahu pinepine lākou i kahi ʻano kiʻi huki lōʻihi. ʻOiai ua hoʻolālā ʻia kēia mau lole no ka haʻahaʻa ma mua o ka hana, hōʻike lākou i nā hoʻāʻo maoli mua i ka hana ʻana i nā lole ʻauʻau hoʻolaʻa.
ʻO kahi manawa koʻikoʻi i ka mōʻaukala o ka wā i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau i ka waena o 1800s me ka hoʻokomo ʻana i ka lole ʻauʻau 'bloomer' no nā wahine. Kapa ʻia ma muli o ke kākoʻo pono o nā wahine ʻo Amelia Bloomer, ua hōʻike ʻia kēia ʻano i kahi lole pōkole i kau ʻia ma luna o nā pālule, e hāʻawi ana i ke kūʻokoʻa o ka neʻe ʻana ma mua o nā hoʻolālā mua. ʻOiai ma ke ʻano haʻahaʻa e like me nā kūlana o kēia mau lā, ʻo ka lole bloomer kahi hana hoʻololi i ka ulu ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau.
No nā kāne, ʻike ʻia ka hopena o ke kenekulia 19 i ka hoʻokomo ʻia ʻana o ka ʻauʻau ʻauʻau hoʻokahi ʻāpana, i uhi ʻia i ka ʻūhā a me nā ʻūhā luna. E kaulana loa kēia ʻano a hiki i ke kenekulia 20. No laila, ke noʻonoʻo nei mākou i ka wā i hana ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau i kahi ʻano i hoʻomaka e hoʻomaka i ka hana a me ka haʻahaʻa, kū ʻo ke kenekulia 19 i mea koʻikoʻi.
Ka Mua o ka 20th Century: Streamlining and Functionality
ʻO ka wanaʻao o ke kenekulia 20 i lawe mai i nā loli nui i ka hoʻolālā lole ʻauʻau, e hoʻomaʻemaʻe hou i ka pane i ka wā i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau i kona ʻano hou. Ua ʻike ʻia ka hoʻomaka ʻana o nā makahiki 1900 i ka neʻe mālie ʻana i nā lole ʻauʻau kūpono a kūpono hoʻi no nā kāne a me nā wahine.
ʻO kekahi o nā hanana koʻikoʻi i ka mōʻaukala o ka wā i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau i ka makahiki 1907 i ka wā i hopu ʻia ai ka mea ʻauʻau Australia ʻo Annette Kellerman ma Bosetona no ke komo ʻana i kahi lole ʻauʻau hoʻokahi ʻāpana e hōʻike ana i kona mau lima a me nā wāwae. Ua hoʻāla kēia hanana i ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa e pili ana i nā kūlana lole ʻauʻau a kōkua i ke ala no nā hoʻolālā kūpono.
ʻO nā makahiki 1920 i hōʻailona hou i kahi mea nui i ka ulu ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau. ʻO nā lole ʻauʻau wahine i ʻoi aku ka pōkole a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ke ʻano, e hōʻike pinepine ana i nā kua haʻahaʻa a me nā wāwae kiʻekiʻe. ʻO ka maillot hoʻokahi ʻāpana, kaulana i kēia mau lā, ua puka mai i kēia wā. No nā kāne, hoʻomau ka ulu ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau, me ka pōkole a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o nā kumu.
ʻO kahi holomua ʻenehana koʻikoʻi i ka mōʻaukala i ka wā i hana ʻia ai ka lole ʻauʻau i ka makahiki 1931 me ka hana ʻana o Lastex yarn. Ua hoʻololi kēia fiber elastic i ka hoʻolālā lole ʻauʻau, e ʻae ai i ka hana ʻana i nā lole e hiki ke hohola a paʻa i ko lākou ʻano ke pulu. Ua hōʻailona kēia mea hou i kahi lele nui i mua i ka hana a me ka hōʻoluʻolu o nā lole ʻauʻau.
The Bikini Revolution: He Mokuna Hou i loko o ka mōʻaukala lole ʻauʻau
ʻAʻohe kūkākūkā o ka wā i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau me ka ʻole o ka haʻi ʻana i ka mea i hana ʻia o ka bikini. Ua hana ʻia kēia lole ʻauʻau ʻelua ʻāpana, i like me ka moʻomeheu kahakai, i ka makahiki 1946 e ka ʻenekini Farani Louis Réard. Kapa ʻia ma hope o ka Bikini Atoll, kahi i hoʻāʻo ʻia ai nā hoʻāʻo ʻana i ka pōkā atomika, ua hoʻolālā ʻia ka bikini e hana i kahi ʻano moʻomeheu pahū.
ʻO ka hoʻokomo ʻana i ka bikini kahi manawa koʻikoʻi i ka mōʻaukala o ka wā i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau. Ua kūʻē ʻo ia i nā loina o ke kaiāulu a ua hoʻokau i nā palena o nā mea i manaʻo ʻia he mau lole kahakai. I ka hoʻomaka ʻana me ka haʻalulu a me ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa, ua ʻae ʻia ka bikini i nā makahiki i hala iho nei, a lilo i hōʻailona o ka hoʻololi ʻana i ke ʻano o ke kino a me ka moekolohe.
ʻAʻole i hoʻololi wale ka hana ʻana o ka bikini i nā lole ʻauʻau wahine akā ua hoʻoikaika pū i nā ʻano kāne. I nā makahiki 1950 a me 60, ua ʻoi aku ka pōkole o nā ʻauʻau kāne o nā kāne, e hoʻohālikelike ana i ke ʻano o nā lole ʻauʻau hōʻikeʻike.
Late 20th Century a hiki i kēia manawa: Innovation and Diversity
Mai ka hopena o ke kenekulia 20 a hiki i kēia lā, ua ʻike ʻia ka hoʻomohala ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau e nā mea hou i nā mea, nā hoʻolālā, a me nā ʻano. Ke noʻonoʻo nei mākou i ka wā i hana ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau i kāna mau ʻano ʻenehana kiʻekiʻe loa, nānā mākou i kēia wā.
ʻO ka hoʻokomo ʻana i nā mea synthetic e like me nylon a me ka spandex i nā makahiki 1960 a me 70s ua hoʻololi hou i ka hoʻolālā lole ʻauʻau. ʻAe ʻia kēia mau mea no nā lole ʻauʻau ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi a me ka maloʻo, kūpono no ka ʻauʻau leʻaleʻa a me ka hoʻokūkū.
Ua ʻike pū ka hopena o ke kenekulia 20 i ka piʻi ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau kūikawā no nā kumu like ʻole. Ua hoʻomaka ka poʻe ʻauʻau hoʻokūkū e komo i nā lole kino kiʻekiʻe i hoʻolālā ʻia e hōʻemi i ka huki a hoʻomaikaʻi i ka hana. Ua hoʻololi ʻia nā lole heʻe nalu i kāna ʻano ponoʻī, me ka mea i hana ʻia o nā papa pōkole a me nā kiaʻi. No ka poʻe hele kahakai, ua hoʻonui ʻia nā koho e hoʻokomo i nā mea āpau mai nā bikini kaula liʻiliʻi a hiki i nā tankini haʻahaʻa a me nā lole ʻauʻau.
I nā makahiki i hala iho nei, ua neʻe ka manaʻo i ka hoʻomau a me ka hoʻohui ʻana i ka hoʻolālā lole ʻauʻau. Ke hoʻohana nei nā ʻoihana he nui i kēia manawa i nā mea hana hou a me nā ʻano hana hoʻonaninani e hana i nā lole ʻauʻau. Ua hoʻoikaika pū ʻia i nā ʻano nui a me nā ʻano like ʻole e hoʻokō i nā ʻano kino like ʻole a me nā makemake moʻomeheu.
Ka Hopena: ʻO ka Evolution mau o nā lole ʻauʻau
No laila, i ka manawa hea i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau? E like me kā mākou i ʻike ai, ʻaʻole pololei ka pane. ʻO ka manaʻo o nā lole kūikawā no ka ʻauʻau ʻana a me ka ʻauʻau ʻana he mau kaukani mau makahiki, e ulu ana me nā loli i ke kaiāulu, ka moʻomeheu, a me ka ʻenehana.
Inā mākou e noʻonoʻo i nā ʻano lole ʻauʻau maʻamau, hiki iā mākou ke ʻimi i kona kumu i ka moʻomeheu kahiko. Eia nō naʻe, inā mākou e nānā i ka wā i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau ma ke ʻano he ʻano lole ʻokoʻa i hoʻolālā ʻia no ka ʻauʻau ʻana a me ka ʻauʻau, e kuhikuhi mākou i ke kenekulia 19.
ʻO ka hana ʻana o ka bikini hou i ka makahiki 1946 he mea nui i ka mōʻaukala o ka wā i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau, hoʻololi i ke ʻano kahakai a me nā kuʻuna kaiāulu.
I kēia lā, hoʻomau ka ulu ʻana o nā lole ʻauʻau, me nā hana hou i nā mea, nā hoʻolālā, a me nā kaʻina hana. Mai nā ʻaʻahu ʻauʻau huluhulu o ke kenekulia 19 a hiki i nā lole ʻauʻau hoʻokūkū kiʻekiʻe o kēia mau lā, ʻo ka mōʻaukala o ka wā i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau he hōʻike ia i ke akamai kanaka a me kā mākou aloha mau i ka wai.
Ke nānā aku nei kākou i ka wā e hiki mai ana, ʻike maopopo ʻia ka moʻolelo o ka wā i haku ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau ʻauʻau. Me ka holomua o ka ʻenehana textile, ka hoʻololi ʻana i nā ʻano pilikanaka, a me ka ulu nui ʻana i ka hoʻomau, ʻokoʻa loa nā lole ʻauʻau o ka lā ʻapōpō mai ka mea a mākou i ʻike ai i kēia lā. Eia nō naʻe, e lilo ia i ʻāpana o ka mōʻaukala lōʻihi a hoihoi i hoʻomaka me ka nīnau maʻalahi: i ka wā hea i hana ʻia ai nā lole ʻauʻau?
